With the absence of fridges and the abundance of fresh foods, the morning market thrives each and every day. Close your eyes and take in the smell of the spices permeating the air, the fruit, the vegetables and the oils and ointments, not to mention the rotting foodstuffs piled high awaiting collection, the scrawny caged chickens waiting to be sold, the smell of burning - be it either metal welding or rubbish, the sewerage and dirt, animal excrement, cooked meat, and pollution.